MegaTech R/C Real World Helicopter Series Uživatelský manuál stáhnout pdf (Strana 57)

HDW TD ASSEMBLE ABS COWLS AND WHEEL PANTS

Cut some

strips of

heavy (4- to

9-ounce) fiber-

glass cloth about

2 inches wide

for the cowl and

about 1 1/2 inches

wide for the

wheel pant;

you'll use them

to reinforce the

seams from the

inside. If the

plastic is somewhat thin, you can fiberglass the entire inside instead

of just the seam. Also have some smaller pieces of cloth handy for

oddly contoured areas and to add reinforcement to mounting holes

or other weak areas. Now lay the strips of cloth into place over the

seams. To simplify this job, spray a light coat of contact cement on

the cloth; this will help hold it in place when you brush on the epoxy.

Mix about 1/2 ounce of slow-curing epoxy in a graduated cup (smaller

batches have a longer working time). Thin the epoxy a little by adding

some rubbing alcohol to it; a thinner mixture more easily soaks

through the cloth and onto the plastic. To apply the epoxy, use

disposable acid brushes; they are easily bent to reach into nooks and

crannies. Apply enough epoxy to the cloth to thoroughly wet it but not

so much that it runs all over the place, and then check for voids; apply

more epoxy as necessary. Work small areas at a time, and then move

to a different section. Allow the epoxy to cure for several hours.

After the epoxy has cured, trim away any excess cloth. Now the parts

are ready for you to remove the seams and apply the putty. Many

putties are available; most modelers have their favorites. I like to use

3M Acryl-Blue Glazing Putty, available at auto-parts stores. This putty

dries quickly, doesn't shrink and feather-sands nicely. You can also

make a filler paste of epoxy and baby powder. Use an artist's spatula

to apply the putty to the part and smooth it out. Work the putty into the

seam and the surrounding area. I applied tape to one half of the cowl

so I wouldn't put any putty where it isn't needed. Once the putty starts

to set up, remove the tape. Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area!

After the putty has cured, roughly block-sand the

filler to shape with 60-grit sandpaper. Check to

see whether any additional filler is needed, and apply as

necessary. Now switch to 150-grit and start to smooth

out and feather the filler into the surrounding areas.

Constantly check the filler for low spots and fill them if

necessary. Because you're using a sanding block, the

putty on the high spots are sanded out while the putty in

the low areas gets left behind. Next, lightly wet-sand the

entire part with 400-grit wet

or dry sandpaper to help remove scratches left behind by the previous sanding.

Just be careful not to sand away the putty. Thoroughly wash the parts to clean

off any finger oils and dust in preparation for priming. Because I covered my

model with Top Flite MonoKote, I used LustreKote primer. Whichever paint system

you use, check its compatibility on some scrap plastic first.

Now that you have primed your parts, they should look just like primed

fiberglass parts. With a little effort, time and basic building skills, you will

have made a cowl and wheel pants that are as durable as fiberglass, and

you will have saved yourself some money in the process. So when your next

kit includes ABS plastic parts, don't chuck them out; build them and amaze

your flying buddies with your finishing skills. ±

LustreKote; distributed by Great Planes Model Distributors Co., P.O. Box 9021,

Champaign, IL 61826-9021; (800) 637-7660; fax (217) 398-0008; www.greatplanes.com.

MonoKote; distributed by Great Planes.

Top Flite; distributed by Great Planes.

82 MODEL AIRPLANE NEWS

1 2 ... 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 ... 74 75

Komentáře k této Příručce

Žádné komentáře

MegaTech R/C Real World Helicopter Series Uživatelský manuál Strana 57

Komentáře k této Příručce

Související produkty a manuály pro Dálkově ovládané hračky MegaTech R/C Real World Helicopter Series